Highlander Travel - Tours in Georgia The Ultimate 2-Day Khevsureti Tour

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The Ultimate 2-Day Khevsureti Tour

Price for one tour per person

$250

tour features

Tour Duration: 2 Days

Tour Location:Mtskheta-Mtianeti

Tour highlights: 2 Days in Georgia's Last Medieval Frontier • Fortress Villages • Mountain Passes • 4WD Expedition

Tour is available June - October

Let’s be honest upfront: This isn’t your typical sightseeing tour. This is a 6-hour 4WD journey deep into one of the most remote corners of the Caucasus, climbing to dizzying mountain passes, descending into hidden valleys where medieval fortress villages cling to cliffsides like something out of Game of Thrones, and spending the night in a place that has no cell service, limited electricity, and looks exactly like it did 700 years ago.

Khevsureti is one of Georgia’s most isolated highland regions – a place where time genuinely stopped somewhere in the Middle Ages. The stone fortress villages, defensive towers, and mountain passes were the domain of fierce warriors who defended these valleys for centuries. Most of these villages were abandoned in the early 1900s when people finally gave up fighting the brutal winters and isolation. What remains is spectacular: perfectly preserved medieval architecture frozen in time, surrounded by some of the most dramatic mountain scenery you’ll ever witness.

The reality: The road to Khevsureti is legendary (some say infamous). It’s unpaved, narrow, carved into cliffsides, crosses mountain passes at 2,676 meters, and is only passable from mid-June through mid-October. The rest of the year? Buried under several meters of snow. This isn’t a comfortable tourist route – it’s an adventure that requires a proper 4WD, experienced driver, and passengers who understand that “remote” really means remote.

🎯 Who This Tour Is For:
Adventure seekers • Photography enthusiasts • History buffs • People who say “off the beaten path” and actually mean it • Anyone with a bucket list that includes “sleep in a medieval fortress village” • Game of Thrones fans who want the real deal

🌟 Why This Tour is Absolutely Extraordinary:

  • Extreme Exclusivity: Only accessible 4 months per year – most tourists never see this
  • Shatili Fortress Village: One of the most unique settlements in the world – 60+ defensive towers and stone houses built together as one massive fortification
  • Mutso & Abandoned Villages: Walk through ghost towns frozen in time, towers still standing after 800+ years
  • Datvijvari Pass: At 2,676m, witness both sides of the Great Caucasus range from the same spot
  • Authentic Cultural Experience: Meal with local family, traditional food preparation, real highland hospitality
  • Epic 4WD Journey: The road itself is an adventure – 6 hours of spectacular scenery and occasional heart-stopping moments
  • Night in Shatili: Sleep in a guesthouse that’s part of the medieval fortress complex
  • Photography Paradise: Every turn is Instagram gold – medieval architecture, mountain landscapes, dramatic light
  • Small Groups Only: 2-6 people maximum – this isn’t mass tourism

🌄 Day 1: Into the Mountains – The Great Caucasus Crossing

07:00 – Early Morning Pickup

We pick you up from your accommodation in Tbilisi while the city is still waking up. You’ll meet your guide and driver (who’s driven this road hundreds of times – trust us, you want someone experienced), load into our 4WD vehicle, and get ready for one of the most spectacular drives of your life.

Quick breakfast stop to grab coffee and snacks – we’re heading into remote territory, so stock up now. Your guide will brief you on the day ahead, answer any questions, and probably share a few stories about previous adventures in Khevsureti.

08:00-08:30 – Jinvali Reservoir Photo Stop

Our first stop is the turquoise Jinvali Reservoir, created in the 1970s where the Aragvi rivers merge. On a clear morning, the water is impossibly blue against the mountains. It’s also your last glimpse of “regular” Georgia – from here, things get increasingly wild.

This is where you’ll see Ananuri Fortress on the opposite shore – a 16th-century castle that looks like it could host a medieval tournament. We won’t visit it this trip (that’s for another tour), but it makes for great photos and gives you a sense of the defensive architecture that dominates this region.

09:00-11:00 – The Road to Khevsureti Begins

Now the adventure really starts. We leave the Georgian Military Highway (the main paved road) and turn onto the Khevsureti road. Almost immediately, you’ll understand why you need a 4WD.

We’re driving through Pshavi, another highland region, gradually climbing. The road gets narrower, the valleys get deeper, the villages get smaller and further apart. You’ll pass through tiny settlements where life moves at a completely different pace – stone houses, vegetable gardens, livestock grazing, and locals who’ll wave as you drive past.

The scenery is already spectacular, but this is just the warm-up. Your guide will point out traditional architecture, explain the history of the mountain peoples, and probably tell you stories about Georgian hospitality, toasts, and local legends.

11:00-11:45 – Khevsureti Ethnographic Museum (Korsha Village)

Stop at this small but fascinating museum created entirely by local people who gathered artifacts from their homes and the abandoned villages. You’ll see traditional Khevsur clothing (these highlanders had their own distinct style – chainmail-like fabric, distinctive crosses, warrior gear), old agricultural tools, weapons, household items, and photos of how life used to be here.

This museum gives crucial context for what you’re about to see. The abandoned villages weren’t always empty – they were thriving communities until the harsh realities of mountain life (brutal winters, isolation, economic hardship) forced people to relocate. The curator, if they’re around, has incredible stories about life in these highlands.

Also, this is your last chance for a proper bathroom and maybe grab some local honey or churchkhela (Georgian snack – grape juice and walnuts) from the small shop.

12:00-13:30 – Climbing to Datvijvari Pass
⛰️ 2,676 meters / 8,780 feet

This is it. This is the moment that makes everyone go quiet.

The road starts climbing seriously now, switchback after switchback, higher and higher up the mountainside. The views become increasingly insane. Look back and you can see the valley you just drove through, now far below. Look ahead and you see the pass getting closer, closer…

And then you reach the top. Datvijvari Pass. At 2,676 meters, you’re standing on the spine of the Great Caucasus range. On one side: the Aragvi Gorge and everything you just drove through. On the other side: the Argun Gorge of Khevsureti – your destination. From this exact spot, you can see both sides of the mountain range. It’s absolutely breathtaking.

There’s a small cross at the top (hence “Datvijvari” – “Bear’s Cross”), prayer flags fluttering in the wind, and probably clouds swirling around you. The temperature here is 10-15°C colder than in the valley. The air is thin. Everything feels vast and dramatic and ancient.

Take your time here. Photos, deep breaths, that moment of “holy shit, we’re really doing this.” This is a bucket-list viewpoint.

13:30-14:00 – Descent into Khevsureti (Lebaiskari)
⛰️ 2,100 meters / 6,890 feet

Now we descend into Khevsureti proper – the Argun Gorge. The first abandoned village you’ll encounter is Lebaiskari, perched at 2,100 meters on the mountainside.

Stop here to stretch your legs and see your first Khevsur tower. These defensive towers are the signature architecture of the region – tall, narrow, built from stone, with tiny windows. They could hold families during attacks, store food for sieges, and serve as the last line of defense for the village. This one has stood here for 700+ years.

The village is empty now, but you can wander through the stone houses, peer into dark interiors, and try to imagine winters here. Spoiler: they were brutal. The people who lived here were genuinely tough.

14:00-15:00 – Kistani Village & Fortress Hike

Next stop: Kistani, another abandoned settlement, but this one has something special – two fortresses on the mountain above the village.

The hike: About 30-40 minutes uphill to reach the fortresses. It’s steep, rocky, and at altitude, so take it slow. But when you reach the top, you’ll understand why they built here. The fortresses overlook the entire narrow gorge – you could see enemies coming from kilometers away and defend the hidden village below.

From the fortress walls, look down at the village. You’ll notice something extraordinary: the houses are built so close together, all connected, with flat roofs. You could literally walk across the entire village by stepping from rooftop to rooftop. This wasn’t just architecture – it was a defensive strategy. During attacks, people could move between houses without exposing themselves to arrows or gunfire.

After exploring the fortresses (carefully – some walls are crumbling), hike back down through the village. It’s haunting. Every house is empty, but the stonework is so solid that these buildings could stand for another 700 years.

15:30-16:30 – Final Approach to Shatili

Back in the 4WD, we continue deeper into the Argun Gorge. The road follows the river, the valley gets narrower, the mountains on both sides get steeper. This is one of the most remote valleys in Georgia.

And then, around a bend, you see it: Shatili.

Your first glimpse of Shatili is unforgettable. The entire village is one massive stone fortress complex – 60+ towers and houses built together, stacked up the hillside, creating what looks like a medieval castle from Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones. Except this is real. People lived here, defended here, raised families here.

It’s one of the most unique settlements in the entire world, and you’re about to spend the night here.

16:30-19:00 – Arrival in Shatili & Free Exploration

Check into your guesthouse (which is literally part of the fortress complex – stone walls, narrow passages, traditional architecture adapted for guests). Drop your bags, put on layers (it gets cold quickly as the sun goes down), and head out to explore.

Shatili is small – maybe 10-15 families still live here year-round – but it’s fascinating. Walk through the narrow lanes between the towers. Climb up levels (carefully – some areas are partially ruined). Look out from the upper terraces over the valley. Find the small church. Watch the light change as the sun gets lower.

Your guide will show you around, explain the history, point out the most important towers, and tell you stories about the people who lived here. Then you’ll have free time to wander on your own. Photographers: the evening light here is magical. The stone glows golden, shadows get dramatic, and you’ll take some of your best shots of the entire Georgia trip.

Around 7:00 PM, head back to the guesthouse for dinner. Your host will serve traditional food – likely khinkali (soup dumplings), mtsvadi (grilled meat), local cheese, fresh bread, and probably homemade chacha (Georgian grappa). The dining room will be cozy, maybe with a wood stove, and your guide will teach you proper Georgian toasting traditions.

Night in Shatili

About your accommodation: Let’s set realistic expectations. The guesthouse is traditional, authentic, and basic. You’ll have a private room with beds and blankets (very necessary – it’s cold!). There’s usually hot water (powered by a small water heater), shared bathrooms, limited electricity (sometimes generator-powered for certain hours), and Wi-Fi is nonexistent.

This isn’t a hotel. It’s a family home in a medieval fortress complex. But your hosts are genuinely warm, the setting is absolutely unique, and honestly? Sleeping in Shatili is part of the adventure. You’re in a place that hasn’t changed in centuries, surrounded by mountains, under incredible stars. Embrace it.

The guesthouses usually have thick blankets and warm rooms. You won’t freeze. But do bring warm pajamas!

☀️ Day 2: Ghost Villages & The Anatori Mystery

08:00-09:00 – Breakfast & Morning Light

Wake up to mountain air and traditional Georgian breakfast – fresh bread, local cheese, honey, maybe some eggs, and strong Georgian tea or coffee. Take your time. Morning light in Shatili is spectacular, completely different from evening. Photographers might want to grab another hour of shooting before we depart.

Pack up your things (but leave nothing behind – remember, we’re in a national park area). We’ll load the 4WD and head deeper into the gorge for today’s explorations.

09:30-10:30 – Anatori: The Village of Death

We drive further up the valley to where the Argun and Andaki rivers meet. This is as far as we can go by vehicle – beyond here, the road ends, and there’s only a hiking trail toward the Chechen border (we’re not going that far!).

Here, you’ll see something unlike anything else: the Anatori plague tombs (or “crypts”). These are small stone structures built in the medieval period, specifically for people who had contagious diseases.

The story is both tragic and fascinating: When someone in the village contracted typhoid or plague, they would voluntarily isolate themselves in these tombs to prevent spreading the disease. They’d take some food and water, say goodbye to their families, and wait for death. It sounds incredibly dark, but it was their way of protecting the community in a time when medicine didn’t exist and diseases could wipe out entire villages.

There are two main structures here, both still standing. You can look inside (don’t go in – they’re partially collapsed and unstable), and you can see bones and skulls – the remains of people who died here centuries ago. It’s sobering, eerie, and a powerful reminder of how brutal life was in these mountains.

Despite the dark history, the location is beautiful – high mountains, rushing river, wildflowers in summer. It’s a strange contrast: profound sadness mixed with natural beauty.

10:30-12:00 – Mutso: The Fortress on the Rock

Next, we head to what many consider the highlight of Khevsureti: the abandoned village of Mutso.

Mutso is built on a sheer rocky cliff, surrounded by defensive towers, and looks more like a fortress than a village. In medieval times, this was one of the most powerful settlements in Khevsureti – strategically positioned to control the valley, heavily fortified, and virtually impregnable.

The hike: From the parking area, it’s a 20-30 minute uphill walk to reach Mutso. The path is rocky and steep in places, but not technical. When you arrive, you’ll immediately see why they built here – the location is dramatic, defensible, and commands views of the entire Andaki Gorge.

You can explore the village (carefully – some structures are unstable). Walk through the narrow passages between towers. Climb inside towers (if they’re safe). Look out from the defensive positions. Try to imagine defending this place against attackers.

The stonework is incredible – tight-fit masonry, narrow windows for archers, thick walls, multiple levels. This wasn’t just housing; this was a fortification that stood for 800 years. The village was finally abandoned in the early 1900s, but the bones of it remain perfectly preserved.

12:00-13:30 – Lunch with a Local Family

One of the absolute highlights: traditional lunch in the yard of a local family near Mutso.

You’ll be welcomed into someone’s home (or outdoor area) where they’ll prepare traditional Khevsuri food. The specialty here is kotori – a fried cottage cheese dish that’s unique to this region. They’ll also likely serve fresh mountain cheese, khinkali (Georgian soup dumplings), bread baked in a clay oven, and various vegetable dishes.

The best part? You get to participate in the preparation. The host (usually the woman of the house) will show you how to make some of the dishes, explain the traditional methods, and share stories about life in Khevsureti. It’s an authentic cultural exchange, not performative tourism.

This is also when you’ll understand Georgian hospitality at its finest. You’ll be treated like family, fed until you can’t move, offered more chacha than you should probably drink at lunchtime, and sent off with genuine warmth and probably some homemade cheese as a gift.

13:30-14:00 – Ardoti: The Last Village

Before leaving Khevsureti, we make one final stop at Ardoti, the last village you can reach by car in the Argun Gorge.

Like Mutso, Ardoti is built on rock, with towers and stone houses climbing the cliff. The village also has the only old church in the Argun Gorge – a simple stone chapel that’s survived centuries. We’ll hike up to the village (15-20 minutes), explore a bit, visit the church, and take in final views of this incredible valley.

By now, you’ll have seen multiple abandoned villages, and you start to understand the pattern: They’re all defensively positioned, all have towers, all have the same solid stone construction. This was a warrior culture, living in one of the harshest environments in the Caucasus. The architecture reflects that reality.

14:00-19:00 – The Long Journey Home

Time to say goodbye to Khevsureti. We load back into the 4WD and begin the journey back to Tbilisi.

The drive back is the same route but feels completely different – you’re seeing everything from the opposite direction, the light is different, and your brain has now processed everything you’ve experienced. There’s usually less stopping on the way back (you’ve seen most of the sights), but we’ll take breaks for bathrooms, photos, and snacks.

Expect to arrive back in Tbilisi around 7:30-8:00 PM, depending on traffic. You’ll be tired, probably sunburned, definitely dusty from the road, and absolutely full of incredible memories.

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One Comment

  1. klu1fje February 10, 2023 at 4:28 pm

    Great trip. With 4x4D to Shatili (6 hours) with superb views. Lot of fun with guide Roma and son :-) Fantastic questhouse. Lady did here utmost best to take good care for us. And she succeded. Recomended.

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