Adjara: Where Georgia Goes to the Beach (And the Mountains)

Subtropical beaches, palm trees, casinos, and snow-capped mountains—all in one region. Georgia’s party capital by summer, adventure playground by winter, and the place where khachapuri comes with an egg on top

Adjara is Georgia’s Florida, minus the theme parks and plus better food.

This autonomous republic on the Black Sea coast is where Georgians vacation, where subtropical humidity makes everything grow like crazy, where you can swim in the morning and ski in the afternoon (literally – it’s a 90-minute drive from beach to alpine resort), and where the khachapuri comes boat-shaped with a runny egg and a slab of butter melting into the cheese.

Batumi, the regional capital, is Georgia’s second city and summer playground – a place where Soviet-era sanatoriums share the coastline with Trump Tower knockoffs, where casinos light up the Boulevard at night, and where the vibe shifts from packed beaches and all-night parties in July to empty streets and closed hotels in January.

But Adjara is more than just Batumi’s beaches. Drive inland and you’re in some of Georgia’s wettest, greenest mountains – rainforest-like valleys with waterfalls, stone bridges spanning rushing rivers, and mountain villages where tea plantations cling to impossible slopes.

This is Georgia at its most subtropical, most cosmopolitan, and most touristy (in season). Whether that’s a feature or a bug depends on what you’re looking for.

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Why Visit Adjara?

Because sometimes you want Georgia to come with a beach.

Look, Georgia’s mountains are spectacular. The wine regions are beautiful. Tbilisi is fascinating. But sometimes you just want to swim in warm water, eat grilled fish, and not think too hard. That’s Adjara.

Here’s what makes it worth the trip:

It’s the only beach option in Georgia. The Black Sea coast is Adjara’s main attraction. The water isn’t Caribbean-clear, but it’s warm (July-August), swimmable, and surrounded by palm trees and a 7-kilometer seaside promenade. For landlocked Georgia, this is the beach.

Batumi is genuinely fun in summer. The city transforms from June to September. The Boulevard fills with families, street performers, and tourists. Beach clubs pump music. Restaurants overflow onto terraces. Casinos and nightclubs operate 24/7. It’s not sophisticated, but it’s energetic and unabashedly touristy in a way that’s kind of refreshing after the authenticity overload of the rest of Georgia.

The food is different here. Adjara was under Ottoman rule for 250 years, and the food shows it. Adjarian khachapuri is Georgia’s most photographed dish—that boat-shaped bread with molten cheese, a runny egg, and butter. The fish is fresh from the Black Sea. Turkish influences sneak into the cuisine. It feels Mediterranean in a way the rest of Georgia doesn’t.

You get mountains AND beaches. This is Adjara’s secret weapon. The coast is subtropical—palm trees, bananas, citrus groves. But drive 30 minutes inland and you’re in green mountains with waterfalls, hiking trails, and ski resorts. Goderdzi Pass gets serious snow. Mtirala National Park is basically a rainforest. The diversity in such a small area is remarkable.

It’s affordable (off-season). Batumi in July? Expensive by Georgian standards. But visit in May, June, September, or October, and prices drop 30-50%. Hotels that charge €80 in August go for €30 in May. And winter? You can get beachfront hotels for €20/night. They’ll be empty, but cheap.

The architecture is delightfully weird. Batumi’s skyline is chaos. Soviet sanatoriums, Stalinist buildings, a random “Trump Tower,” a twisted skyscraper hotel, a building covered in Georgian alphabet letters, statues everywhere (moving statues!), and neon lights on everything. It shouldn’t work, but it creates a bizarre, fun energy.

The vibe is relaxed. Unlike the rest of Georgia, where everyone wants to feed you and invite you home, Batumi in summer is transactional—it’s a resort town. That can feel less “authentic,” but it also means you can just be a tourist without constant intense hospitality. Sometimes you want to just sit on a beach and be left alone.

But let’s be honest about the downsides:

Summer is crowded and expensive. July-August, Batumi is packed with Georgian, Armenian, Azerbaijani, and Turkish tourists. Hotels triple their prices. Beaches are shoulder-to-shoulder. It’s the most touristy Georgia gets.

Winter is dead. November through April, half of Batumi shuts down. Hotels, restaurants, bars—closed. The weather is gray and rainy. The beach is empty and sad. Unless you’re here to ski Goderdzi, winter Batumi is depressing.

The beach isn’t spectacular. Let’s manage expectations: Batumi Beach is pebbles (not sand), the water is Black Sea murky (not crystal clear), and it gets crowded. It’s perfectly pleasant, but if you’re comparing it to Mediterranean or Caribbean beaches, you’ll be disappointed.

It feels separate from Georgia. Adjara has its own identity – 250 years of Ottoman rule left a mark. The architecture, the food, and even the vibe feel different from the rest of Georgia. Some travelers love this; others feel like it’s not “authentic” Georgia.

Batumi: Georgia’s Beach Capital

Let’s be clear: Batumi IS Adjara for most tourists. The city accounts for 90% of Adjara tourism. So let’s give it the attention it deserves.

Understanding Batumi

Batumi (population ~160,000) sits on the Black Sea coast, backed by green mountains. It’s Georgia’s second city, the capital of Adjara, and a place with a serious identity crisis—in the best way possible.

Is it a historic Black Sea port? Yes. A Soviet resort town? Also yes. A modern casino hub? Absolutely. A palm-tree-lined Mediterranean wannabe? Sure. All at once? You bet.

The result is a city that shouldn’t work but somehow does. Modern glass towers next to crumbling Soviet buildings. Orthodox churches next to mosques. Georgian restaurants next to Turkish döner shops. It’s messy, touristy, fun, and in summer, absolutely alive.

What Batumi is:

• Beach resort (June-September)
• Casino city (earning it the nickname “Las Vegas of the Black Sea”)
• Port city (commercial, not tourist)
• Gateway to Turkey (border is 15 km south)

What Batumi is NOT:

• Sophisticated (it’s fun, not fancy)
• Authentic mountain Georgia (it’s its own thing)
• Year-round destination (winter is dead)

Batumi Boulevard: The Heart of Everything ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

The 7-kilometer seaside promenade is Batumi’s main attraction. Officially called Batumi Boulevard, locals just call it “the Boulevard.” This palm-lined walkway runs along the coast from the port to the new Boulevard, packed with attractions, restaurants, sculptures, fountains, and summer crowds.

What’s here:

The Beach: Pebble beach (not sand) along the entire Boulevard. Water quality is… okay. Not crystal clear, but warm in summer (June-September). The beach gets packed July-August—shoulder-to-shoulder in places. Less crowded at the edges (northern and southern ends).

Ali and Nino Statue (Moving Statue): The iconic 8-meter-tall steel sculptures of a man and woman. Every 10 minutes, they move toward each other, merge, then pass through and separate. It represents the tragic love story of an Azerbaijani Muslim boy (Ali) and a Georgian Christian girl (Nino). Best viewed at dusk when it’s lit up. Everyone photographs this.

Alphabet Tower: A 130-meter tower shaped like the Georgian letter “Ⴀ” (A/Ani). The exterior is decorated with all 33 letters of the Georgian alphabet. You can take an elevator to the top for 360° views (15 GEL). Worth it for sunset.

Batumi Ferris Wheel: On Batumi Beach, this illuminated Ferris wheel is hard to miss at night. Rides cost 10 GEL. Views are nice, but honestly, the Alphabet Tower is better.

Fountains and Light Shows: The Boulevard has multiple musical fountains that do choreographed light and water shows in the evenings (free). Cheesy but fun.

Piazza: A small Italian-style square with cafes, a mosaic floor, and surrounded by colorful buildings with stained glass. Designed to feel “European.” Good for coffee and people-watching.

Dancing Fountains: The big fountain show happens nightly in summer near the Batumi City Hall. Worth catching once (also free).

6th of May Park: At the southern end of the Boulevard, this park has a zoo, a dolphinarium, and a cable car station.

Practical info:

• Length: 7 km (allow 2-3 hours to walk fully)
• Best time: Early morning (empty, good light) or evening (everything lit up, lively atmosphere)
• Bike rental: Available along Boulevard (5-10 GEL/hour)
• Don’t: Eat at Boulevard restaurants—they’re overpriced and mediocre. Walk one block inland.

Batumi Beach: What to Expect ⭐⭐⭐

Let’s talk honestly about the beach.

The Good:

• 7 km of accessible coastline
• Warm water June-September (23-26°C)
• Palm trees and promenade
• Beach clubs with loungers and bars
• Free access (no entry fees)

The Reality:

• Pebbles, not sand. Your feet will hurt. Bring beach shoes.
• Crowded in July-August. Peak season is shoulder-to-shoulder.
• Water quality is okay. It’s the Black Sea—not crystal clear, sometimes murky, but swimmable.
• Rocky entry. Wear water shoes for comfortable entry.
• Waves can be strong. The Black Sea isn’t always calm.

Beach sections:

Central Beach (near Ali and Nino):

• Most crowded
• Best infrastructure (showers, toilets, cafes)
• Beach clubs with lounger rentals (10-20 GEL/day)
• Close to everything

Northern Beach (near port):

• Less crowded
• Quieter
• Fewer amenities
• Better for relaxing

Southern Beach (toward airport):

• Newer development
• High-end beach clubs
• Cleaner water
• Less crowded

New Boulevard:

• Further south, past Batumi proper
• Modern promenade extension
• Quieter, more upscale
• Growing area

Beach clubs: Many offer lounger rentals, bars, music, and a “scene.” Prices: 15-30 GEL for a lounger, plus food/drinks.

Batumi Old Town (Adlia) ⭐⭐⭐

Behind the Boulevard is Batumi’s small Old Town—a few streets of 19th-century buildings, cafes, and shops. It’s pleasant but tiny. You can walk the whole thing in 30 minutes.

What’s here:

• Europe Square: The Old Town’s center, with a statue of Medea holding the Golden Fleece
• Piazza (mentioned above): Italian-style square
• Cafes and wine bars: Better prices than Boulevard, more atmospheric
• Batumi Drama Theatre: Beautiful building, sometimes has performances

Reality check: Batumi’s Old Town is nothing like Tbilisi’s. It’s small, partially reconstructed, and feels more like a themed area than an authentic historic quarter. Nice for an hour of wandering, but don’t expect major sights.

Modern Batumi: The Skyline ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Batumi’s modern architecture is… a lot. Love it or hate it, it’s distinctive.

Notable buildings:

Batumi Tower (Technological University Tower): The twisted skyscraper with a Ferris wheel built into it. Supposedly the world’s tallest building with an integrated Ferris wheel. You can ride it (15 GEL).

Alphabet Tower (mentioned above): DNA helix-shaped tower covered in Georgian letters.

Batumi Sheraton / Batumi Hilton: Modern glass towers dominating the skyline.

“Trump Tower”: Not officially called that, but locals do. A golden-glass tower that tries very hard to look like Trump architecture.

Chacha Tower: A clock tower that dispenses free chacha (Georgian grape vodka) from a fountain every hour. Yes, really. Locals bring cups. Tourists gather for the spectacle and free shots.

The vibe: It’s Vegas-meets-Dubai-meets-Soviet-resort-town. Architecture critics hate it. Instagrammers love it. It’s definitely memorable.

Batumi Cable Car ⭐⭐⭐⭐

The Argo Cable Car runs from 6th of May Park up Anuria Mountain for panoramic city views.

Details:

• Length: 2.5 km
• Duration: 10-15 minutes each way
• Cost: 10 GEL round trip, 7 GEL one way
• Hours: 11:00-22:00 (summer), 12:00-20:00 (winter)
• Views: Spectacular—entire city, coast, mountains, Turkey in the distance

At the top: Observation deck, restaurant (overpriced), souvenir shops. You can hike down if you want.

Best time: Late afternoon into sunset.

Batumi Botanical Garden ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Located 9 km north of Batumi, this 111-hectare garden on a hillside overlooking the Black Sea is genuinely impressive.

What’s here:

• 5,000+ plant species from around the world
• Subtropical, Mediterranean, and Asian flora sections
• Bamboo groves, palm trees, magnolias
• Walking paths with coastal views
• Peaceful, uncrowded

Why visit:

• Escape the Batumi crowds
• Beautiful setting (hillside terraces, sea views)
• Well-maintained
• Educational if you care about plants; pretty if you don’t

Practical info:

• Entry: 8 GEL adults, 1 GEL students
• Hours: 9:00-20:00 (summer), 9:00-17:00 (winter)
• Time needed: 2-3 hours
• Transport: Marshrutka #31 or #15 from Batumi (1.5 GEL, 20 min), or taxi (15-20 GEL)
• Tip: Bring water; it’s hilly.

Where to Eat in Batumi

Batumi’s food scene is a mix of Georgian classics, Black Sea fish, and Turkish influences.

What to eat:

Adjarian Khachapuri: The boat-shaped cheese bread with egg and butter. Every restaurant serves it. Try it at:

• Any local Georgian restaurant (15-20 GEL)
• Beachside cafes for the setting

Black Sea Fish: Fresh caught, grilled, or fried. Look for:

• Kalkan (turbot)
• Hamsi (anchovy)
• Barbun (red mullet)

Turkish-influenced dishes:

• Lahmacun (Turkish pizza)
• Döner kebabs
• Baklava

Where to eat:

Budget (€5-10/meal):

• Local khinkali spots one block from Boulevard
• Sakhachapure N1: Famous for khachapuri
• Georgian cafeterias around Batumi market

Mid-range (€10-20/meal):

• Cafe Adjara: Traditional Adjarian food, good khachapuri
• Fanfan: Turkish-Georgian fusion, popular with locals
• Sunset Restaurant: Near Botanical Garden, great fish

Splurge (€25+/meal):

• Chocolatte Coffee-Room: Upscale cafe-restaurant
• Hotel restaurants (Sheraton, Hilton, Divan)

Avoid: Restaurants directly on the Boulevard—overpriced, mediocre quality, tourist traps.

Pro tip: Walk one block inland from the Boulevard. Prices drop 30-50%, quality improves.

Nightlife & Casinos

Batumi is Georgia’s party capital, especially in summer.

Casinos: Batumi has 20+ casinos. Gambling is illegal in most of Georgia, but allowed in Adjara. The city markets itself as “Las Vegas of the Black Sea” (it’s not, but the ambition is there).

Major casinos:

• Casino Shangri La
• Olympic Casino
• Colosseum Casino

Most are attached to hotels, open 24/7, and attract Armenian, Azerbaijani, and Turkish tourists (gambling is illegal in those countries).

Nightclubs: Summer only (most close October-May):

• Boho Beach Club: Beach party vibe
• Pravda Rave Beach: Electronic music
• Hide Beach Bar: Upscale beach club
• Various clubs on the Boulevard

Bars:

• Old Town has wine bars and cocktail spots
• Boulevard has tourist bars
• Local beer bars exist one block inland

Reality check: Batumi nightlife is fun but not sophisticated. It’s beach resort energy—loud music, crowds, dancing. If you want Tbilisi’s cool underground clubs, you won’t find them here.

Where to Stay in Batumi

By the Beach (Boulevard area):

• Best for: First-timers, families, beach access
• Vibe: Touristy, lively in summer, convenient
• Price: €30-100/night (summer), €15-40 (off-season)
• Examples: Sheraton, Hilton (high-end); Batumi Plaza (mid-range); tons of budget guesthouses

Old Town:

• Best for: Atmosphere, restaurants, slightly quieter
• Vibe: More character, walkable
• Price: €25-70/night
• Examples: Boutique hotels in restored buildings

New Boulevard (south):

• Best for: Quieter beach, newer development
• Vibe: More residential, less crowded
• Price: €30-80/night
• Transport: Further from center (10-15 min walk or short taxi)

Budget options:

• Guesthouses one block from Boulevard: €15-25/night
• Soviet-era hotels (basic but functional): €20-35/night

Luxury:

• Sheraton, Hilton, Divan, Radisson Blu: €80-200/night

When to book:

• July-August: Book 2-3 months ahead; prices triple
• May-June, September: Book 2-4 weeks ahead; good deals
• October-April: Book last-minute; hotels are desperate

Beyond Batumi: Adjara’s Nature & Mountains

Most tourists never leave Batumi. That’s a mistake. The mountains inland are spectacular.

Gonio Fortress ⭐⭐⭐⭐

15 km south of Batumi | Roman-Byzantine fort

One of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, Gonio dates to the 1st-2nd century AD when the Romans controlled the area. The walls (partially standing) enclosed a Roman military camp.

Why visit:

• Ancient history (2,000 years old)
• Well-preserved walls and gates
• Archaeological site with ongoing excavations
• Beach nearby (Gonio Beach, less crowded than Batumi)

Legend: Supposedly the tomb of Apostle Matthias is here, though no one’s found it.

Practical info:

• Entry: 3 GEL
• Hours: 10:00-18:00
• Transport: Marshrutka to Sarpi stops here (1.5 GEL), or taxi (10-15 GEL)
• Time: 1-2 hours
• Combine with: Sarpi (Turkish border), Kvariati Beach

Makhuntseti Waterfall & Queen Tamar Bridge ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

30 km from Batumi | Most popular day trip

Makhuntseti is a 20-meter waterfall in a lush gorge. It’s beautiful, accessible, and gets crowded in summer.

What’s here:

• The waterfall (you can swim in the pool beneath)
• Queen Tamar Bridge: Medieval arched stone bridge, supposedly built in 12th century
• Hiking trails
• Cafes and picnic areas

Practical info:

• Entry: Free
• Transport:
  • Marshrutka from Batumi to Keda, get off at Makhuntseti (3 GEL)
  • Taxi: 40-60 GEL round trip with wait time
  • Organized tour: 30-50 GEL per person
• Time needed: 2-3 hours
• Best time: Morning (fewer crowds)
• Swimming: Possible but water is cold

Pro tip: Combine with Khulo or continue to Goderdzi Pass for a full day.

Mtirala National Park ⭐⭐⭐⭐

25 km from Batumi | Georgia’s rainforest

Mtirala means “crying” in Georgian—it’s one of the wettest places in Georgia (4,500mm annual rainfall). The result? A lush, green, rainforest-like ecosystem.

What’s here:

• Hiking trails (easy to moderate)
• Waterfalls
• Dense forests
• Chameleons (yes, really—this is their habitat)
• Visitor center with info

Hiking trails:

• Chameleon Trail: 2 km loop, easy, family-friendly
• Mtirala Waterfall Trail: 5 km, moderate
• Long Trail: 14 km, challenging, goes to the summit

Practical info:

• Entry: 5 GEL
• Transport: Taxi (40-50 GEL from Batumi), or organized tour
• Time: Half-day to full day
• Bring: Rain jacket (it rains often), water, mosquito repellent

Goderdzi Pass ⭐⭐⭐⭐

100 km from Batumi | Ski resort & mountain pass

At 2,025 meters, Goderdzi Pass is Adjara’s mountain playground. In winter, it’s a ski resort. In summer, it’s alpine hiking and stunning views.

Winter (December-March):

• Skiing: Small resort with 4 lifts, 6 runs
• Snow quality: Good (lots of it)
• Lift pass: 25-35 GEL/day
• Gear rental: 20-30 GEL
• Vibe: Local, not developed, no fancy amenities
• Accommodation: Limited—book ahead or stay in Khulo

Summer (June-September):

• Hiking: Trails through alpine meadows
• Views: Mountains, valleys, grazing horses
• Temperature: Cool and fresh (20°C in summer)
• Activities: Hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking

How to get there:

• From Batumi: 2-2.5 hours by car
• Road: Paved but winding, spectacular scenery
• Transport: Taxi (80-100 GEL), or marshrutka to Khulo then taxi

Where to stay:

• Khulo: Small town 20 km before the pass, guesthouses (15-25 GEL)
• At the pass: Very limited options (one or two guesthouses)

Mountain Villages

Khulo: Gateway to Goderdzi, a small mountain town. Worth a stop for lunch and views. Known for cheese production.

Shuakhevi: In the Adjara mountains, known for the Shuakhevi Fortress ruins and the new controversial hydroelectric dam.

Beshumi: High-altitude village (1,900m) with alpine meadows. Popular in summer for hiking and cool weather. Gets snow in winter (roads close).