Trekking in Racha mountains

Georgia’s best-kept secret — trek to massive glaciers in the untouched “Swiss Alps of the Caucasus” where you’ll likely have the mountains entirely to yourself.

Racha is often called the “Switzerland of the Caucasus” – but unlike Switzerland, you’ll likely have these mountains to yourself. While tourists flock to Svaneti, Racha remains wonderfully empty, offering the Greater Caucasus at its most authentic: no crowds, no commercialization, just you, the mountains, and some of the friendliest villagers in Georgia.

This 5-day trek is based in Ghebi, the northernmost village in Racha, sitting at 1,700 meters beneath a wall of glaciers and 4,000-meter peaks. Over three trekking days, you’ll explore two of the region’s most impressive glaciers – Kirtisho (the largest in the entire Rioni River basin at 6.5 km long) and Zopkhito – plus dramatic views of the Shoda-Kedela Ridge, a 59-kilometer mountain barrier rising to 3,600 meters. The landscapes here are raw and powerful: abandoned villages, roaring rivers, endless alpine meadows, and ice fields that few foreigners ever see.

Duration: 5 days, 4 nights | Total Driving: ~680 km (round trip) | Total Trekking: ~50 km

Max Elevation: 2,500m | Base: Ghebi village (1,700m) | Difficulty: Moderate | Group Size: 1–6 persons

This trek suits: Hikers seeking authentic mountain experiences away from tourist crowds. Those with moderate fitness comfortable hiking 6-8 hours on mountain trails with 800m elevation changes. Travelers who value cultural immersion — staying with local families, eating traditional food, experiencing genuine Georgian hospitality. Photography enthusiasts drawn to dramatic glacier landscapes and untouched alpine scenery. Anyone who wants to see what the Caucasus looked like before mass tourism arrived.

This trek doesn’t suit: Those seeking well-developed tourist infrastructure — Racha has basic guesthouses, not hotels. Anyone uncomfortable with 18-20 km day hikes over rocky mountain terrain. Travelers requiring reliable mobile phone coverage or internet access. Those who prefer busier trails with other trekking groups for company. Anyone unwilling to pass through border zone checkpoints (passport required, permits arranged by us).

We depart Tbilisi in the morning, driving west through the Likhi Range that divides eastern and western Georgia. The route takes us through Kutaisi and then north into the Racha highlands.

The first scenic highlight is Nakerala Pass, where we stop to take in panoramic views over the Colchis Lowland – the ancient Greek name for western Georgia’s coastal plains. From here, you begin to understand why Racha was so isolated for centuries: the mountains form a natural fortress.

Continuing into Racha, we stop at Shaori Lake, a stunning reservoir surrounded by spruce forests and mountain peaks. This is one of the most beautiful lakes in Georgia, particularly in late afternoon light when the mountains reflect on the calm water.

The final stretch takes us up the Rioni Valley to Ghebi, the northernmost village in Racha. You’ll arrive in late afternoon to your guesthouse – a traditional stone house where your hosts have been preparing dinner. Tonight is for settling in, enjoying Rachan hospitality, and preparing for the treks ahead.

Today’s trek heads south from Ghebi toward the Mukhameshi area, offering your first full views of the Greater Caucasus panorama. The trail follows old shepherd paths through meadows and light forest before emerging onto open alpine grasslands.

Within 30 minutes of leaving the village, the views open dramatically: the eternal snowy peaks of the Caucasus stretch across the horizon, with the glaciers of Racha and neighboring Svaneti gleaming in the morning light. You can see Zopkhito, Zeskho, and Edena glaciers from here – a preview of the terrain you’ll explore in coming days.

The highlight is reaching the viewpoint of the Shoda-Kedela Ridge. This massive mountain barrier stretches 59 kilometers and rises to 3,600 meters – a wall of rock and ice that separates Racha from the valleys to the south. The views from Mukhameshi, at the foot of this ridge, are among the most impressive in all of Racha: undulating alpine meadows carpeted with wildflowers, waterfalls cascading down cliff faces, and the ridge itself towering overhead.

This is an acclimatization day – challenging enough to prepare your body for the longer treks ahead, but with time to enjoy the scenery rather than racing to a distant goal. We return to Ghebi for dinner and a good night’s rest.

Today’s trek takes us north toward the Russian border and Kirtisho Glacier – the largest glacier in the entire Rioni River basin. At 6.5 kilometers long and 600 meters wide, this river of ice descends from the peaks that mark Georgia’s northern frontier.

We leave Ghebi heading north along the Chveshuri River gorge. The trail passes through the abandoned village of Gona – often called “Georgian Switzerland” for its stunning mountain backdrop. Only a handful of families live here seasonally; in winter, the village is completely cut off by snow.

Beyond Gona, the landscape transforms. The green cover gradually disappears as we climb into the alpine zone, replaced by rocky terrain and the increasingly dramatic views of the surrounding peaks. Streams cascade down from cliffs above, and the scale of the mountains becomes almost overwhelming – peaks rising to over 4,000 meters on either side.

The trail ends at the tongue of Kirtisho Glacier, at around 2,500 meters elevation. Standing at the edge of this massive ice field, with the peaks of Tsitela (4,259m) and Laboda (4,313m) towering above, you understand why so few tourists make it to this corner of Georgia. The return follows the same route, arriving in Ghebi by evening.

⚠️ Border Zone Note: There is a border police checkpoint at Gona where you’ll need to show identification (passport required). We arrange all necessary permits in advance. Border guards are professional and the process is straightforward.

Our final trekking day heads northeast from Ghebi toward the Zopkhito Glacier – the largest and most spectacular of the glaciers accessible from the village. The route also passes near the Loboda and Edena glaciers, giving you a sense of just how many ice fields surround this valley.

The trail follows the Rioni River gorge upstream, the same river that you’ve been following since entering Racha. Here at its source, the Rioni is a young, powerful mountain stream fed by the glaciers above. The trail passes abandoned summer settlements and through beautiful birch forests before emerging onto the alpine meadows that lead to the glacier.

The views today are arguably the finest of the trip. Enormous summits rise on all sides, their cliffs reflecting the sun. The glacier itself sits at 2,500 meters, a massive tongue of ice beneath peaks that exceed 4,000 meters. The setting is almost surreal – a sun-kissed amphitheater of rock and ice, often with not another person in sight.

This is the longest trek of the tour at 20 kilometers round-trip, but the terrain is moderate and the scenery rewards every step. We return to Ghebi for our final evening in the mountains – a chance to celebrate the trek with your hosts over traditional food and Racha’s famous wine.

After breakfast in Ghebi, we begin the return journey to Tbilisi. The drive gives you time to process five days of mountain experiences as the landscapes gradually shift from alpine to lowland.

We can make stops along the way for any sights missed on Day 1, or visit additional Racha highlights like the 11th-century Nikortsminda Cathedral with its remarkable carved stone decorations, or the regional center of Oni with its historic synagogue (Racha had a significant Jewish community until the 20th century).

The tour concludes with drop-off in Tbilisi in the late afternoon, giving you time to rest before evening plans or onward travel.

Kutaisi departure is 140 km closer to Ghebi, reducing driving time and cost. Contact us for exact pricing.

Fitness Requirements & Difficulty

This trek is rated moderate. Days 3 and 4 are the most demanding with 18-20 km distances and 800m elevation gain/loss. You should be comfortable hiking 6-8 hours on mountain trails and able to handle some steep sections on rocky terrain. The maximum elevation is 2,500m – low enough that altitude sickness is rarely a concern.

No technical climbing or special equipment is needed. If you can hike a full day in mountains with a daypack, you’ll manage this tour.

Best Time to Trek

The trekking season in Racha runs from June through September. June offers wildflowers and fuller streams, but some snow may remain at higher elevations. July and August provide the most reliable conditions with warm days and stable weather. September brings autumn colors and fewer flies, but days are shorter and nights colder.

What to Bring

Essential gear: Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support, rain jacket and layers, sun protection, small daypack (25-35L), water bottle (1.5L minimum), headlamp, trekking poles (recommended), and basic first aid/medications.

No camping equipment needed – you return to the same guesthouse each night. Pack light; you can leave extra luggage at the guesthouse.

Accommodation & Food

All four nights are at a family guesthouse in Ghebi village. Accommodation is simple but comfortable: private rooms, shared bathrooms, hot water available. The atmosphere is authentic – you’re staying with local families, not in a hotel.

Food is a highlight of this trip. Racha is famous throughout Georgia for its cuisine, and your hosts take pride in preparing traditional dishes. Expect fresh bread, local cheese, grilled meats, vegetable dishes, and homemade preserves. Racha wine (including the famous semi-sweet Khvanchkara) is available. Vegetarian options can be arranged with advance notice.

Border Zone Requirements

The Kirtisho glacier trek passes through a border zone near Russia. We arrange all necessary permits in advance. You’ll need your passport for the checkpoint at Gona village. Border guards are professional and the process is straightforward.

Mobile Coverage & Connectivity

Coverage in Ghebi village is limited and often unreliable. There is no mobile signal at the glaciers or on most of the trails. Consider this a chance to disconnect – or bring a satellite communicator if you need to stay connected.

Racha remains one of the last unspoiled corners of the Caucasus. While tourists crowd Svaneti’s trails, you’ll have Racha’s glaciers virtually to yourself. This 5-day trek combines challenging mountain hiking with genuine cultural immersion – staying with families who still live by traditions unchanged for generations, eating food prepared from ingredients grown in their own gardens, and exploring landscapes that few foreigners ever see.

We’ve been organizing treks in Racha since the early days of Georgian mountain tourism, when these trails saw perhaps a handful of foreign visitors per year. We know the families, the trails, and the hidden corners that make this region special.

If you’re looking for an authentic mountain experience away from the crowds, Racha delivers. Contact us to check availability or to customize this trek to your interests.