Javakheti & Borjomi Trek: 8 Days Through Georgia’s Wild South

We begin with a journey through Georgia’s ancient heartland. Our first stop is Mtskheta, the country’s spiritual capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here you’ll visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, where Georgians believe Christ’s robe is buried, and the hilltop Jvari Monastery overlooking the confluence of two rivers — a view that inspired the national poet Lermontov.

From Mtskheta, we continue to Uplistsikhe, a remarkable rock-hewn town that served as a pagan worship center before Christianity arrived in Georgia. Walking through its carved streets and chambers, you’re stepping back 3,000 years. The site gives fascinating context for the megalithic structures you’ll encounter later in Javakheti.

By evening, we reach the village of Marelisi on the western edge of Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. Your guesthouse hosts will prepare a traditional dinner while you rest before the trek begins. This is your last night with hot showers for a few days — enjoy it!

After breakfast and a gear check, we enter Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. The trail today takes us from the Imereti region into Samtskhe-Javakheti, crossing a mountain ridge that separates two distinct climate zones. On the Imereti side, the air is humid and the forest lush with Colchic subtropical species. As we cross to the other side, the vegetation gradually changes.

The hiking is moderate today — a good warm-up for what’s ahead. You’ll walk through mixed forests of beech, hornbeam, and fir, with the possibility of spotting roe deer or hearing the calls of forest birds. Brief rain showers are common on this side of the park, so keep your rain jacket accessible.

We spend the night at Sakhvlari Tourist Shelter, a basic wooden cabin with sleeping platforms. These shelters are part of what makes Borjomi-Kharagauli special — they allow multi-day treks through genuine wilderness without carrying heavy camping gear. Dinner is prepared by your guide using provisions carried from the trailhead.

This is the most demanding day of the Borjomi section — and one of the most rewarding. The trail climbs steadily through increasingly dramatic forest, transitioning from deciduous woodland to dark Caucasian fir groves. In early summer, the upper slopes explode with rhododendron blooms.

As you gain elevation, gaps in the forest reveal stunning views. To the north, the snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus line the horizon. The landscape feels increasingly alpine, with subalpine meadows appearing between forest patches. Keep an eye out for wildlife — this area is prime habitat for brown bears, though sightings are rare.

The final push to Lomismta shelter takes you to 2,198 meters — the “Mountain of the Lion.” The shelter sits just below the summit, and if you have energy left, your guide can lead a short hike to the peak for sunset views across the park. Dinner at altitude, under stars undimmed by light pollution, is a highlight many trekkers remember long after.

We complete the national park traverse today, descending through pristine forest to the Likani Ranger Station. The trail winds down through increasingly dense vegetation, passing rare yew trees included in Georgia’s Red List of protected species. Keep an eye out for animal tracks — bears, wolves, and wild boar all live in this forest.

The descent is long but steady, dropping over 1,200 meters through some of the park’s most impressive old-growth forest. These trees have never been logged — you’re walking through genuine primeval wilderness, a rarity in modern Europe.

From Likani, we transfer to the village of Atskuri where a guesthouse awaits with hot showers, clean beds, and a proper home-cooked dinner. After three days in the wilderness, these simple comforts feel luxurious. Take time to rest and recover — the Javakheti section of the trek awaits.

Today is a rest day for your legs but a feast for your eyes. We begin at Rabati Fortress in Akhaltsikhe, a 9th-century citadel that reflects the region’s complex history — Georgian, Ottoman, and Persian influences all visible in its architecture. The recently renovated fortress complex includes a mosque, church, and excellent museum.

From Akhaltsikhe, we take a detour to the village of Saro — not a tourist destination, but fascinating for those interested in ancient history. The village is home to a megalithic fortress similar to what you’ll see at Abuli, with massive stone walls and commanding views. This is your introduction to the mysterious Bronze Age structures scattered across southern Georgia.

The day’s highlight is Vardzia, one of Georgia’s most impressive monuments. Carved into a cliff face in the 12th century, this cave monastery once housed up to 2,000 monks across 13 levels of tunnels, churches, and living quarters. The frescoes in the Church of the Dormition are among the finest medieval paintings in the Caucasus. Walking through the honeycomb of caves, you’ll understand why this place has captured imaginations for centuries.

We spend the night at a guesthouse near Vardzia, where your hosts will prepare traditional Meskheti cuisine.

Welcome to a different world. The Javakheti volcanic plateau looks nothing like the forests of Borjomi-Kharagauli. Here, above the treeline at 2,000+ meters, you’ll find vast alpine meadows, scattered volcanic rocks, and a horizon punctuated by the cones of extinct volcanoes. The light has a different quality up here — sharper, clearer, almost surreal.

Today’s trek takes us to Patara (“Little”) Abuli at 2,700 meters and the enigmatic Abuli Fortress. Built from massive stone blocks during the Bronze Age (around 2nd millennium BC), this cyclopean structure sits on the mountain’s southern slope at 2,670 meters. The ring-shaped fortress contains what appear to be towers and living quarters, yet there’s no water source nearby, and the current climate makes year-round habitation impossible. Who built it? Why here? These questions remain unanswered.

The trail has no marked path — this is truly off-the-beaten-track hiking. You’ll navigate through boulder fields and across alpine meadows, possibly encountering shepherds grazing their flocks in summer. Most shepherds in this region are ethnic Azerbaijanis, and stopping at their camps for tea is one of the trek’s unexpected pleasures.

We descend to the eastern side of the Samsari range and spend the night at a guesthouse near Lake Paravani — Georgia’s largest lake at 2,073 meters elevation.

Summit day. Didi (“Big”) Abuli at 3,305 meters is the highest peak in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region and the culmination of the trek. Like its smaller neighbor, it’s an extinct volcano — the summit is covered with grey volcanic rocks, remnants of its fiery past.

We start early to maximize our chances of clear weather. The ascent involves approximately 1,000 meters of elevation gain over rocky terrain without a marked trail. The final approach crosses loose volcanic scree and requires careful footing. The effort is worth it: from the summit, you can see an astonishing number of lakes — Paravani, Tabatskuri, Abuli, Tsabi, and numerous smaller pools scattered across the volcanic landscape. On clear days, the views extend across most of the Javakheti plateau.

After descending, we return to our guesthouse for a celebratory dinner. You’ve now conquered the highest peak of southern Georgia!

After breakfast, we begin the drive back to Tbilisi. The route passes through the Javakheti highlands with possible stops at Sagamo Lake (excellent for birdwatching) or the Armenian-influenced town of Akhalkalaki. You’ll arrive in Tbilisi by early afternoon, with time to explore the capital or rest before onward travel.