Mtskheta: Where Georgia’s Story Begins

Just 20 kilometers from modern Tbilisi lies Mtskheta, a small town with an enormous historical footprint. Founded in the 4th century BC, Mtskheta served as the capital of the Eastern Georgian Kingdom of Iberia for nearly a thousand years.

Even after the political capital moved to Tbilisi in the 5th century AD, Mtskheta retained its role as Georgia’s spiritual center—a position it holds to this day. For a brief but significant period in the 9th-10th centuries, while Tbilisi remained under Arab control as the Tbilisi Emirate, Mtskheta once again became the political capital, reasserting its importance in Georgian history.

Today, this ancient town preserves some of the most significant early Christian monuments in the Caucasus, recognized by UNESCO as treasures of world cultural heritage. To visit Mtskheta is to touch the very foundation of Georgian national identity.

Your Sacred Journey

Jvari Monastery: The Cross on the Mountain

Your pilgrimage begins at Jvari (literally “the Cross”), a 6th-century monastery perched dramatically on a rocky mountaintop overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers. The short drive up the winding road builds anticipation—and when you step out, the view takes your breath away.

The Legend of St. Nino’s Cross

In the 4th century, after St. Nino converted King Mirian III to Christianity, the newly baptized king erected a wooden cross on this sacred hilltop—a former pagan site. According to tradition, the cross performed miracles, and crowds of Georgians came to worship here. Two centuries later, King Stephanoz I built this exquisite church around the site of King Mirian’s original cross.

Architectural Marvel

Jvari represents the pinnacle of Georgian early medieval architecture. Its perfectly proportioned tetraconch design (a square with four semicircular apses) influenced church architecture throughout the Caucasus for centuries. Despite being 1,400 years old, the structure remains remarkably intact.

From Jvari’s terrace, you’ll see why Georgian poet Mikheil Lermontov immortalized this view in his poem “Mtsyri.” The two rivers merge far below, ancient Mtskheta spreads across the valley, and the Caucasus Mountains rise in the distance. Your guide will point out each monument you’ll visit, giving you a geographical understanding of this sacred landscape.

Photography paradise: Golden hour (late afternoon) bathes the valley in magical light. This is Georgia’s most photographed vista for good reason.

Bagineti Archaeological Site: Echoes of Ancient Power

Available for small groups (up to 6 people)

Descending from Jvari, small groups can explore the Bagineti archaeological site—the remains of an ancient district where Georgia’s pre-Christian kings once held court.
Walking among the excavated ruins, you’ll see:

• Royal Palace Foundations – Where Iberian kings administered their realm
• Roman-Style Thermal Baths – Evidence of sophisticated urban culture (1st century BC – 2nd century AD)
• Pagan Temple Remains – Sacred spaces before Christianity’s arrival
• Ancient City Walls – Defensive structures protecting the royal quarter

Your guide will help you visualize how this hillside once bustled with palace life, religious ceremonies, and the daily rhythms of an ancient capital. The thermal baths, in particular, reveal Mtskheta’s cosmopolitan character—influenced by Roman engineering while maintaining its own distinct identity.

Historical significance: These archaeological layers prove human settlement here stretches back over 2,000 years, making Mtskheta one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the Caucasus.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Entering through Mtskheta’s narrow streets, you’ll arrive at Svetitskhoveli (“the Living Pillar”), Georgia’s most sacred cathedral and the country’s spiritual epicenter for over 1,000 years.

The Miracle of the Pillar

Legend tells that when Christ was crucified, a Georgian Jew named Elias was present in Jerusalem. He purchased Christ’s robe from a Roman soldier and brought it back to Mtskheta. His sister Sidonia took the robe and, overcome with emotion, died clutching it. The robe couldn’t be separated from her body, so she was buried with it.

From her grave grew a giant cedar tree. Centuries later, when St. Nino converted Georgia to Christianity, King Mirian ordered the tree cut down to build the first church. But the stump of that sacred cedar refused to move – until St. Nino prayed all night, and it rose into the air, floating and glowing with miraculous light. When it descended, it became the church’s central pillar – the “living pillar” that gives the cathedral its name.

Architectural Grandeur

The current cathedral, built in the 11th century by master architect Arsukisdze, represents Georgian medieval architecture at its finest. Despite damage from invasions and earthquakes over the centuries, it has been lovingly restored while maintaining its historical character.
Inside, you’ll discover:

• The Sacred Pillar – Draped in ornate fabric, marking the burial site of Christ’s robe
• Royal Tombs – The final resting place of Georgian kings and queens from various dynasties
• Ancient Frescoes – Some dating back centuries, depicting biblical scenes and Georgian saints
• The Last King’s Grave – King Heraclius II and other members of the Bagrationi royal dynasty rest here
• Intricate Stone Carvings – Every surface tells a story through medieval artistry
• UNESCO Recognition: Svetitskhoveli’s combination of legendary significance, architectural excellence, and continuous religious use for over a millennium earned it World Heritage status.

Cultural note: Svetitskhoveli remains Georgia’s coronation cathedral. Although Georgia no longer has a monarchy, this is where kings were crowned for centuries, and it’s still considered the nation’s most important church. Many Georgian couples dream of marrying here.

Samtavro Monastery: Where Christianity Took Root

A short walk from Svetitskhoveli brings you to Samtavro (“the ruler’s place”), an 11th-century monastery complex with its own compelling story.

The First Christian Monarchs

Within the monastery church lie the tombs of King Mirian III and Queen Nana—Georgia’s first Christian rulers who, persuaded by St. Nino in 337 AD, declared Christianity the state religion. This made Georgia one of the first nations in the world to officially embrace Christianity, predating most of Europe.

St. Nino’s Connection

The monastery grounds also include a small church marking the site where St. Nino herself lived in a simple tent among blackberry bushes while converting the Georgian kingdom. Her modest dwelling contrasts powerfully with the grand churches built in her honor—a reminder that world-changing spiritual movements often begin with one dedicated soul.

Living Monastery

Unlike many historic churches that function primarily as museums, Samtavro remains an active monastery. You’ll likely see monks and nuns going about their daily prayers, pilgrims lighting candles, and locals seeking blessings. This living spiritual tradition connects you directly to 1,700 years of continuous Christian practice.

Architectural features:

• Harmonious blend of different building periods
• Beautiful bell tower visible from across Mtskheta
• Peaceful monastery garden perfect for quiet reflection
• Icons and religious artworks spanning centuries

The Sacred Confluence: Where Waters Meet

Throughout your tour, you’ll return again and again to views of the river confluence—where the silver-green Aragvi River from the mountains meets the muddy Mtkvari River from the valleys. This meeting of waters held spiritual significance long before Christianity arrived.

Ancient Georgians believed this confluence was a sacred place where heaven and earth touched. When St. Nino chose nearby hills for her cross and the first churches, she was building on thousands of years of spiritual tradition. Your guide will help you understand how Georgia’s Christianity absorbed and transformed earlier beliefs, creating a unique synthesis that defines Georgian identity.

What Makes This Tour Special

Beyond Surface Tourism

We don’t just show you buildings—we reveal the stories that make them matter. Why did St. Nino choose this spot? How did medieval architects create structures still standing after 1,400 years? What does it feel like to stand where kings were crowned?

Local Expert Guides

Our certified guides are passionate historians who can read medieval inscriptions, explain architectural techniques, and answer your deepest questions about Georgian Christianity, history, and culture.

Flexible Pacing

We move at your rhythm. Want to photograph every angle? Fascinated by the frescoes? Need quiet time for spiritual reflection? This is your journey.
Small Groups

A maximum of 10 people ensures everyone can hear the guide, ask questions, and have a personal experience rather than a crowded tour bus shuffle.