tour in Vashlovani protected area

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Jeep tour in Vashlovani protected area 2 days

Price for one tour per person

$300

tour features

Tour Duration: 2 Day

Tour Location:Kakheti

Tour highlights: Takhti tepa, Dali reservoir, Khornabuji fortress, Datvikhevi gorge, Pantishara gorge, St Elia church, Artsivi gorge

Tour is available Whole year

2-Day Jeep Tour in Vashlovani National Park: Georgia’s Hidden Desert

Mud volcanoes, semi-desert canyons, wild gazelles, and landscapes that feel nothing like the rest of Georgia explore the country’s most remote and unusual protected area

Why Vashlovani Matters

Most travelers never hear about Vashlovani. While tourists flock to Kazbegi’s mountains or Kakheti’s vineyards, this protected area sits in Georgia’s far southeastern corner, practically unknown to foreigners.

This is Georgia’s badlands—semi-desert steppes, dramatic canyons carved by seasonal rivers, active mud volcanoes bubbling from the earth, and wildlife you won’t see anywhere else in the country. Locals sometimes call it “Georgian Africa” because the landscapes feel more like East Africa or Central Asia than the Caucasus.

During my years organizing tours in Georgia, I’ve watched Vashlovani remain stubbornly off-radar despite being one of the country’s most unique natural areas. That’s actually part of its appeal. Where Kazbegi sees hundreds of tourists daily, Vashlovani might see a dozen visitors per week. You’ll encounter more wildlife than other travelers.

What makes this tour special:

The landscapes are completely unexpected. After days of green mountains and vineyard valleys, suddenly you’re in semi-arid badlands with golden grasses, eroded cliffs in shades of rust and orange, and skies that stretch forever. The mud volcanoes bubble and hiss—a geological phenomenon Georgia doesn’t advertise but rivals anything in neighboring Azerbaijan. The canyons drop dramatically, carved over millennia by rivers that now flow only seasonally.

The wildlife tells you you’re somewhere different. Georgian gazelles (found nowhere else in Georgia) graze in herds across the steppes. Caucasian eagles circle overhead. In winter, Tushetian shepherds bring thousands of sheep down from the highlands, their flocks covering entire hillsides.

This is raw adventure tourism—rough roads, basic accommodation, genuine remoteness. You’re three hours from the nearest hospital, in landscapes where your phone probably won’t work, staying in villages where English is rare. That’s exactly what makes it worthwhile for travelers seeking Georgia beyond the tourist trail.

This tour suits:

  • Adventure travelers wanting Georgia’s hidden corners
  • Wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers
  • Photographers seeking unique landscapes
  • Anyone tired of crowded destinations
  • Travelers who’ve already seen Georgia’s “greatest hits”

This tour doesn’t suit:

  • Luxury seekers (accommodation is basic)
  • Anyone uncomfortable with heat in warmer seasons
  • First-time Georgia visitors with limited time (see Kazbegi and Kakheti first)
  • Travelers needing constant comfort and polish

Understanding Vashlovani National Park

Geography & Location

Vashlovani Protected Areas occupy Georgia’s extreme eastern corner in the Dedoplistskaro district, bordering Azerbaijan along the Alazani River. The protected territory includes Vashlovani Strict Nature Reserve, Vashlovani National Park, and several natural monuments: Eagle Gorge, Takhti-Tepa mud volcanoes, Juma Bay, and Alazani Floodplains—roughly 25,000 hectares total.

The park lies between two of Kakheti’s major rivers—the Iori and Alazani—which define the region’s ecosystems and serve as lifelines in this dry landscape.

Why This Landscape Exists

Vashlovani receives significantly less rainfall than western or central Georgia, creating semi-arid conditions unique in the country. Annual precipitation barely reaches 400-500mm (compared to 1,500-2,000mm in western Georgia), resulting in desert-like steppe ecosystems.

The geology tells an ancient story. Millions of years ago, this area sat beneath the Paratethys Sea—an ancient ocean that covered much of Central Asia. When the sea receded, it left sedimentary rock layers now exposed in canyon walls. In Pantishara Gorge, you’ll see fossilized bones of southern elephants and ancient sea clams embedded in the stone—tangible proof that this desert was once underwater.

The mud volcanoes at Takhti-Tepa result from geological activity pushing mud, gas, and minerals toward the surface. While Azerbaijan is famous for its extensive mud volcano fields, few realize Georgia has them too, right here on the border.

Ecosystems & Habitats

The park protects several distinct habitats:

Semi-desert steppe: Golden grasses, low shrubs, sparse vegetation adapted to dry conditions. This is where gazelles graze and ground-nesting birds breed.

Badlands and eroded cliffs: Sedimentary rock carved by water and wind into dramatic formations with colors ranging from rust red to pale yellow.

River valleys: Ribbons of green along seasonal watercourses where vegetation thrives and wildlife concentrates.

Canyon ecosystems: Deep gorges provide shelter, nesting sites for raptors, and cooler microclimates.

Wildlife

Vashlovani’s location at the intersection of several biogeographic zones creates unusual biodiversity for such a dry landscape.

Mammals: The Georgian gazelle (goitered gazelle) is the star—these elegant antelopes exist nowhere else in Georgia, and Vashlovani holds the country’s only viable population. You’ll see them grazing in herds, especially early morning and evening.

Wild boar, jackals, badgers, and foxes inhabit the park. Wolves pass through occasionally. There have been reported sightings of leopards, though these remain unconfirmed and extremely rare if true.

Birds: Birdwatchers love Vashlovani. The canyon cliffs host nesting Caucasian eagles, bearded vultures (lammergeiers with massive wingspans), griffon vultures, black vultures, and Egyptian vultures. Smaller raptors—hawks, falcons, and kites—patrol the skies hunting rodents and reptiles.

During migration seasons, the park becomes a highway for birds moving between breeding and wintering grounds. Dali Reservoir attracts waterfowl, herons, and sometimes even flamingos.

Reptiles: Various lizard species and snakes (mostly harmless) sun themselves on rocks. The dry climate suits reptiles well.

Conservation & History

The protected areas were officially established in 2003, though conservation efforts began earlier. The park balances protection with traditional land use—Tushetian shepherds have wintered their flocks here for centuries, and this seasonal transhumance continues under park management.

Rangers patrol regularly, monitoring wildlife populations and preventing poaching. The gazelle population, once threatened, has rebounded thanks to protection efforts. Research continues on the park’s unique ecosystems and the fossils being discovered in sedimentary layers.

Why “Georgian Africa”

Stand in Vashlovani’s semi-desert, watching gazelles graze beneath acacia trees while eagles circle overhead, and you’ll understand the nickname. The landscapes, wildlife, and even the quality of light feel African rather than Caucasian. It’s a startling transformation from the Georgia most tourists experience—proof that this small country contains remarkable geographic diversity within its borders.

Detailed 2-Day Itinerary

Day One: Tbilisi to Vashlovani

Morning: Departure & Journey East

We depart Tbilisi early, driving east through Kakheti toward the Azerbaijan border. The landscape transforms gradually—the green valleys of wine country giving way to drier, more open terrain as we approach Georgia’s eastern extreme.

Our first stop is Khornabuji Fortress, a medieval fortress ruin perched dramatically on a cliff above the Iori River valley. The fortress itself isn’t particularly well-preserved, but the setting is spectacular and it’s worth the stop to stretch your legs and photograph the panoramic views. The fortress reminds you that even this remote corner of Georgia has layers of human history.

Entering Vashlovani Protected Area

We arrive in Dedoplistskaro, the district center and our gateway to the park. This is where border zone logistics happen. Because Vashlovani borders Azerbaijan, we must register with border authorities. We’ll stop at the visitor center where rangers check documentation and issue permits. This process takes fifteen to thirty minutes—routine but essential.

The visitor center provides information about the park, trail maps, and small exhibits on wildlife and geology. It’s worth browsing while permits are processed.

From Dedoplistskaro, we transfer to 4WD jeeps if not already in them. Normal vehicles cannot handle what comes next—rough, unpaved tracks that climb and descend through increasingly wild terrain.

Takhti-Tepa Mud Volcanoes

The road to Takhti-Tepa bounces and lurches across open steppe. You’ll understand immediately why 4WD is essential. The landscape becomes increasingly otherworldly—less vegetation, more exposed rock, colors shifting from green-gold to rust-orange.

Then you see them: dozens of mud volcanoes dotting the landscape like miniature mountains. Gray mud bubbles and oozes from vents, sometimes making popping sounds as gas escapes. The largest cones reach several meters high, built up over years from mud flows. Fresh mud looks wet and shiny; older flows have dried and cracked into geometric patterns.

You can walk among the mud volcanoes, approaching carefully (the ground can be slippery near active vents). The smell is distinctive—sulfurous and mineral-rich. Touch the dried mud and it feels smooth, almost clay-like. The landscape looks lunar, completely unlike anywhere else in Georgia.

This is one of only a few places in the country where you can see active mud volcanoes. While Azerbaijan has larger and more numerous fields, Takhti-Tepa is remarkable enough and far less visited.

We stop for packed lunch near the mud volcanoes, sitting in whatever shade we can find (often minimal) while you absorb the strange landscape.

Datvikhevi (Bear’s Gorge)

After lunch, we drive to Datvikhevi Canyon. The road becomes even rougher—rocky tracks that climb ridges and descend into valleys, crossing dry streambeds and navigating sections where erosion has made the path challenging. This is genuine off-road driving.

Datvikhevi Gorge is a deep canyon carved through limestone and sedimentary rock by seasonal water flow. The canyon walls drop steeply, exposing layers of different colored stone—creams, yellows, rust reds. When light hits the walls at the right angle, the colors glow.

We hike into the gorge, following what is sometimes barely a path. The terrain is uneven—loose rock, occasional scrambling over boulders. It’s not technically difficult, but you need to watch your footing. The deeper you go, the more impressive the walls become.

Look up at the cliff faces and you’ll often spot Caucasian eagles circling or perched on ledges. These massive raptors nest here, taking advantage of the inaccessible cliff sites. Bring binoculars if you want good views—they’re spectacular birds with wingspans reaching over two meters.

Pantishara Gorge & Fossil Sites

Late afternoon brings us to Pantishara, another canyon with different geology than Datvikhevi. Here, the story shifts from erosion to deep time. In the sedimentary rock layers exposed in Pantishara’s walls, you’ll see fossilized remains—bones of southern elephants that roamed here hundreds of thousands of years ago, ancient sea clams proving this desert once lay beneath water.

Your guide points out the fossil layers and explains the geology. You’re not going to find complete skeletons, but the visible fragments makea  tangible connection to the distant past. The fossils are protected—look but don’t remove anything.

The gorge itself is beautiful, especially as the afternoon light angles across the canyon. Gazelles often graze in the area around Pantishara, so watch the surrounding steppes.

Artsivi (Eagle) Gorge

We make one more stop at Artsivi Gorge, named for the eagles that nest on its cliffs. This canyon offers different viewpoints and perspectives. As the sun lowers, the light on the canyons becomes increasingly dramatic—golden hour transforms the landscape.

This is prime photography time. The canyons, the open steppe, the sky—everything glows. If you’re lucky with wildlife, gazelles may be moving to evening grazing areas, becoming more active as temperatures cool.

Evening: Dedoplistskaro

As dusk approaches, we drive back to Dedoplistskaro for the night. The accommodation is a basic family-run guesthouse—simple rooms, shared or private bathrooms depending on what’s available, Georgian hospitality, and home-cooked food.

Don’t expect boutique hotel standards. These are clean, functional guesthouses run by local families. Hot water is usually available. The beds are comfortable enough. What you’re paying for is location and access to the park, not luxury.

Dinner is traditional Georgian food—simple, hearty, filling. Bread, cheese, vegetable dishes, maybe grilled meat. If you have dietary restrictions, inform us in advance so we can communicate with the guesthouse.

After dinner, you’re likely exhausted from the long day—the driving, the heat (in season), the walking, the sensory overload of new landscapes. Most guests sleep soundly.

Day Two: Further Exploration & Return

Morning: Early Start

If you’re keen on wildlife and photography, consider starting before dawn. The hour around sunrise is when wildlife is most active—gazelles graze, birds hunt, the light is spectacular. This is optional but recommended for enthusiasts.

Breakfast at the guesthouse—bread, cheese, eggs, coffee, tea. Simple but adequate fuel for another day of exploration.

Dali Reservoir

Our first destination is Dali Reservoir, an artificial lake created in Soviet times that has become an important wetland ecosystem. The contrast with yesterday’s dry canyons is striking—suddenly there’s water, greenery, reeds, and birds.

Dali attracts waterfowl and wading birds. Depending on the season, you might see ducks, geese, herons, egrets, and occasionally even flamingos during migration periods. For birdwatchers, this stop is gold. Even if you’re not a birder, the reservoir provides peaceful scenery and a different perspective on the region’s ecology.

We walk along the reservoir shore, scanning for birds. Bring binoculars if you have them.

Additional Sites

Depending on time, weather, road conditions, and group interests, we can visit additional locations:

Alesilebi Canyon: Another dramatic gorge, less visited than Datvikhevi or Pantishara. Multiple viewpoints offer different perspectives on the canyon and the surrounding badlands.

St. Elijah Church: A small church in a remote setting, a pilgrimage site for locals, with views over the surrounding landscape.

Additional canyon viewpoints or wildlife viewing areas based on what you’ve enjoyed most or want to photograph further.

The second day is somewhat flexible. While we have target destinations, we can adjust based on weather, wildlife sightings, photography opportunities, or if the group wants more time at particular locations. This flexibility is one advantage of small group touring—we’re not locked into rigid schedules.

Return Journey

Midday or early afternoon, we begin the drive back to Tbilisi. The return journey takes approximately four to five hours with stops for lunch (either at a restaurant en route or a packed lunch, depending on timing and preference).

You arrive back in Tbilisi late afternoon or early evening, dropped at your accommodation, dusty and tired but having seen a side of Georgia most tourists never experience.

Best Time to Visit: Seasonal Guide

Choosing the right season makes the difference between an enjoyable adventure and a miserable experience. I’ve run tours in Vashlovani across all seasons, and timing matters enormously here.

Spring (April-June): Excellent ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Early April ranks among the two best times to visit. The desert blooms with wildflowers after winter rains, transforming the typically golden landscape into splashes of color. Temperatures remain comfortable—warm during the day but not oppressive. Gazelles have their young, and watching baby gazelles alongside their mothers is delightful.

May and early June continue the good conditions. Daytime temperatures rise but stay manageable. The landscape begins transitioning from green back to its typical golden-brown as vegetation dries out.

Why spring works: Comfortable temperatures, active wildlife, blooming plants, and reliable dry weather after the rainy period ends.

Watch for: Late spring storms occasionally occur in April. Check forecasts before departure.

Summer (July-August): Not Recommended ⭐⭐

I’m honest with clients: summer in Vashlovani is brutal. Temperatures regularly hit 40-45°C (104-113°F) in the open desert. The heat isn’t just uncomfortable—it’s potentially dangerous. There’s minimal shade, the sun reflects off light-colored rock, and the hot wind offers no relief.

Wildlife becomes less active, sensibly hiding during the hottest hours. Photographing landscapes in harsh midday light produces washed-out images. Walking any distance feels exhausting. Even sitting in the jeep becomes uncomfortable as the vehicle’s metal frame radiates heat.

We do run tours in July and August if clients specifically request them, but we strongly encourage alternative timing. If you have no choice but summer, expect to start before dawn, take long midday breaks in whatever shade exists, and limit active exploration to early morning and evening.

Why summer doesn’t work: Oppressive heat, less active wildlife, harsh light for photography, potential health risks from heat exposure.

Autumn (September-November): Excellent ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

September through October offers the second optimal window. Temperatures cool to comfortable ranges, the light turns golden and perfect for photography, and the heat-stressed landscape begins recovering.

November becomes interesting for different reasons. Tushetian shepherds arrive with their flocks as Tusheti’s mountain passes close with snow. Suddenly the empty steppes fill with thousands of sheep, shepherd camps appear, and you can witness traditional nomadic life. The cultural dimension adds depth to the natural experience.

Why autumn works: Perfect temperatures, beautiful light, comfortable conditions, and in late autumn, the arrival of shepherds with their flocks.

Winter (December-March): Specialized ⭐⭐⭐

Winter is viable but represents a different experience. Temperatures drop significantly—days range from cool to cold, nights can freeze. The landscape looks stark. Many facilities close or reduce operations.

However, February offers something special. This is lambing season when shepherd camps burst with newborn lambs. If you’re interested in traditional shepherd culture and don’t mind cold weather, winter provides unique access to this centuries-old lifestyle.

Why winter works (for some): Shepherd culture, complete solitude, unique perspective on the landscape.

Why winter doesn’t work (for most): Cold temperatures, limited facilities, shorter days, less accessible wildlife viewing.

Rainy Weather: Tours Cannot Operate

This is critical: heavy rain makes Vashlovani inaccessible. The roads turn to mud, becoming impassable even for 4WD vehicles. The risk of getting stuck or sliding off cliff-edge tracks becomes unacceptably high.

We monitor weather forecasts closely. If significant rain is predicted or conditions are wet, we’ll cancel the tour with full refund or reschedule. This isn’t optional—it’s a safety requirement. Even our most experienced drivers won’t risk the roads in wet conditions.

Spring (April-May) occasionally sees late-season storms. Autumn rains are less common but possible. Summer rain is rare but when it comes, it can be intense. We always have contingency plans, but understand that weather cancellations can happen, and safety comes first.

My Recommendation

Book for early April or late September through October. These periods offer the best combination of weather, wildlife activity, landscape conditions, and comfortable exploration. If you’re specifically interested in shepherd culture, November through February opens that dimension, but expect colder conditions.

Avoid July and August unless you have exceptional heat tolerance. Be flexible about weather—if we need to cancel or postpone due to rain, it’s because continuing would be unsafe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Honestly, if you have seven to ten days or less in Georgia, prioritize Kazbegi, Kakheti wine region, maybe Svaneti. Vashlovani is for travelers who’ve already seen Georgia’s major destinations and want something completely different, or who have specific interests in deserts, wildlife, or off-road adventure. It’s not “must-see” in the way Kazbegi is, but it’s remarkable for those seeking unusual destinations.

Seeing gazelles in Vashlovani isn’t guaranteed – they’re cautious and tend to flee at the first sign of people. However, with some patience and good timing, you still have a fair chance. Spring offers the best opportunity, especially outside the shepherding season when there are fewer disturbances from sheep and dogs. During shepherding season, the presence of flocks and herding dogs often frightens the gazelles away and poses one of the main threats to their population.

Summer heat is severe. Forty to forty-five degrees Celsius (104-113°F) is normal in July and August. The sun reflects off light rock, there’s minimal shade, and hot wind provides no relief. I’ve done summer tours and they’re miserable. We strongly encourage April-June or September-November instead.

We’ll run the tour if you insist, but with modifications—earlier starts before dawn, longer midday breaks in whatever shade exists, limited hiking during peak heat. Expect to be uncomfortable. Bring extra water, excellent sun protection, and realistic expectations.

Age isn’t the issue—temperament is. If your children can handle long jeep rides on bumpy roads, don’t need constant entertainment, can walk on rough terrain, and won’t complain about basic accommodation, they’re fine. Teenagers usually love it. Young children (under eight or ten) often struggle with the long days and rough conditions. Use your judgment about your specific children.

Difficult to answer definitively. The roads are genuinely rough—not dangerous, but constantly bumpy and jarring. If your back problems are minor, you’ll probably manage, though you might be sore. If you have serious spinal issues or recent injuries, the sustained jostling might cause problems. Perhaps consider a shorter day trip to the closer parts of Kakheti instead.

Georgian cuisine has many vegetarian dishes – cheese, bean dishes, vegetables, and salads. We can accommodate vegetarians easily. Vegans are more challenging but possible with advance notice. Other dietary restrictions (allergies, religious requirements) need to be communicated when booking so we can coordinate with guesthouses.

If you’re expecting dinosaur skeletons or museum-quality displays, no. If you’re interested in seeing actual fossils in situ – embedded in the rock layers where they’ve been for hundreds of thousands of years, with your guide explaining the geological story – yes, it’s fascinating. The importance is less about spectacular individual fossils and more about the geological narrative.

Not really. Snakes exist but are rarely encountered and mostly non-venomous (though avoid all snakes to be safe). Jackals are shy. Scorpions and spiders exist but aren’t aggressive. The biggest danger is heat exposure and dehydration, not wildlife.

The visitor center and some stops have basic pit toilets. Much of the time, it’s “nature’s toilet”—find privacy behind rocks or bushes. This is wilderness touring. If this is unacceptable to you, reconsider whether remote area travel suits you.

Camping is romantic in theory but less practical in reality. The guesthouses provide hot showers, reliable meals, and some comfort after long, dusty days. Camping would save minimal money while reducing comfort significantly. For most travelers, the guesthouse is the right choice. If you specifically want camping for the experience, mention it when booking—we can discuss options.

Why Book This Tour

Vashlovani isn’t for everyone. It’s hot or cold depending on season, accommodation is basic, roads are rough, and you’re far from comfort and convenience. But for travelers seeking authentic adventure and landscapes unlike anywhere else in Georgia, it’s extraordinary.

I’ve organized tours across Georgia for years. Vashlovani stands out because so few people visit. While Kazbegi sees hundreds of tourists daily fighting for selfie spots, Vashlovani might have a dozen visitors weekly. You’ll experience remoteness and solitude that’s increasingly rare in modern travel.

The landscapes genuinely surprise. After days of green mountains and vineyard valleys, the semi-desert feels like you’ve entered a different country. The mud volcanoes bubble and hiss. The canyons drop dramatically through colored rock layers. The gazelles graze in herds across golden steppes. It’s strange, beautiful, and completely unexpected.

The wildlife viewing exceeds what most of Georgia offers. Where else can you watch endangered gazelles, see multiple eagle species in a single day, and walk among ancient fossils proving this desert once lay beneath seas?

This tour requires accepting basic conditions. But if you can embrace simplicity—rough roads, simple food, basic guesthouses—in exchange for genuine wilderness and adventure, Vashlovani delivers experiences unavailable elsewhere in the country.

We’ve been running tours here for years. Our guides know the park intimately—where gazelles typically graze, which viewpoints offer best light for photography, how to read weather and adjust accordingly, when to push forward and when to take breaks. They understand the geology and can explain what you’re seeing. They have relationships with guesthouses and rangers.

The jeeps are proper 4WD vehicles maintained for rough conditions. The permits are arranged correctly. The logistics work. You can focus on experiencing the park rather than worrying about whether your vehicle will make it or if paperwork is correct.

Small group sizes mean flexibility. If you spot interesting birds, we can stop. If light is perfect for photography, we linger. If everyone’s exhausted from heat, we adjust pace. Rigid schedules serve no one in remote areas.

This is Georgia’s secret national park. Most travelers never hear about it. Those who visit remember it long after wine tours and mountain selfies have blurred together.

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